Cinque Terre & Liguria

This once upon a time, sleepy backwater where century's of generations lived their life fishing, cultivating wine and avoiding pirates was turned on its head upon popular discovery by the modern day travel juggernaught known as Rick Steves. He has always specialized in Italy, knows it like no other, and he introduced to the American market back in the 80's a place that time forgot. A place where the villagers walk between the towns by a well worn path made for donkey and human. A place that is easier to access by boat than car, and a local train made all the stops on a loose schedule, called a "milk train" for all of one US dollar. It was all so tempting and unknown (although Germans and English had long ago discovered). Undiscovered Italy. That was the beginning of the end of the sleepy place.

Cinque Terre is known equally for its walking path. What was once an enjoyable walking path between the five towns, dubbed la via d'amore, is now a toll road for the packs of tourists that come here to see the "charm" of this "sleepy" place of the past. Locals were curious and welcoming. Today they are openly weary of the packs of pudgy people looking to put another notch in their walking sticks. Italian menus have been replaced by the ubiquitous "tourist menu" in four languages (don't forget the French!). Still interested? How brave you are! Please read on!

THE PATH, THE VILLAGES

The truth is, the villages remain charming. And the path provides quite a work out. The terrain one must walk occasionally is level, but most of the time winds up and down the slopes of this steep hillside as it meets the Mediterranean ocean. It now requires a pass-card to walk it (available in any of the towns ad train stations). The origins are Roman and this can still be found in evidence from stumbling upon ancient Roman steps carved into the hill, as well as patterned bricks and slabs of cut rock. It's all part of the path.

RIOMAGGIORE
At first glance Riomaggiore appears the least interesting of the group, and the smallest. But once you arrive on the other side of the walking tunnel (get your pass out!), and see the disarray of pastel colored houses, you realize why this wee place has been a favorite for photographers and painters.

MANAROLA

The village of Manarola, only a half hour walk from Riomaggiore, is perched majestically along a rock promontory with terraced vineyards as a backdrop. There is a secondary footpath leading up the mountainside to the village of Volastra, where after an hours climb, one can survey the coast from 1000 feet above sea level.

CORNIGLIA

It is worth the extra climb up the winding stairs to this village for your best view of the Cinque terre coastline. Once there, take a rest and enjoy a glass of the local white wine (Cinque Terre DOC) said to be the finest wine in the area. The grape is vernaccia and pigato. White crisp wines.

VERNAZZA

Although the prettiest of all the villages, it's also the most popular of the five. The La Spezia - Portovenere - Cinque Terre boat stops here and so many of the tourists that arrive go no further. The small sandy beach is populated by families, babies and young adults eyeing each others tans. But the water remains clear, cool and a great place for diving off of rocks. It sits in the shelter of a rocky cove, the dark rocks making a dramatic contrast behind the brightly colored houses and castle marks the path as you descend into town.

MONTEROSSO AL MARE

This is the biggest of all the five towns. Can we call it the capital? Why not, as it is the only one that has developed somewhat into a resort town with a few hotels, more restaurants, beach houses, and more found tucked in and out of its cobbled streets. Monterosso is a living village most of the year (although off season it is far more charming) and its enormous fortified castle that stands against the sea lends a healthy dose of yesteryear.

OTHER FISHING VILLAGES OF LIGURIA

For those that seek the towns not yet trampled by the German language, may we suggest Bonassola (just up the line from Monterosso al Mare) where a resort feeling is somewhat less charming. But it's a place to visit. But your best bet is the poetic Portovenere found closer to La Spezia (and OFF the train line). Portovenere, increasingly discovered by tourism, delivers a very different experience and is easily the most charming of them all. Accessible by bus and boat from La Spezia, check out the castle ruins, the church ion the sea and the place where Byron Shelly hatched Frankenstein.